Ask misterjustin: Painting Realistic Rock

My "realistic rock" tutorial has been a long running favorite and I've redone it a couple of times now. I figured it was finally time to get it posted in video format though and so here it is!



The technique is a bit rushed in the video as I only have 9 minutes before YouTube cuts me off. But if you want to see additional examples of the finished technique just check out the "Runic Mountain" pressure cast resin bases. I painted the whole lot of them using this technique to create differin styles.

Ask misterjustin: Priming Models

After I posted pics of one of my personal projects I had several people ask me why I would prime a model white and then paint it black. It's an excellent question and I'm happy to answer it.

First let me say that you should only apply a very (VERY!) thin layer of primer to your models. I'll look at why below but when I say "thin" I mean that if you're priming white over a grey model you should still be able to see grey through the primer.

If you apply the primer too thickly you'll loose detail on the model and create a smooth layer that will be LESS effective at helping paint to adhere to the model (see 1, below).

Now let's look at why you prime a model:

1. It adds "teeth" to help paint adhere to the mode
2. It helps in finding mold lines and surface defects
3. It allows you to use thinner layers of paint
4. Pre-shading

1. By using a thin layer of primer you create a very slightly rough texture on the model. This isn't the rough texture, often called "orange peel," that you get with a bad primer application but a very thin coating of paint. This thin coating creates tiny, microscopic peaks and valleys that will give the next layer of paint somewhere to rest. This keeps it from flowing more freely across the model and helps stop it from being rubbed off as easily with handling as there is more surface holding the paint in place.

2. Many are the mold lines you'll find when you add a thin layer of primer. This gives you a chance to clean them up, and re-prime just that section, before moving on.

3. By adding "teeth" to the model you can use thinner layers of paint, and thus loose less detail while painting, because it's easier for the second and subsequent layers to adhere to the model.

4. Pre-shading is something I'll cover in a future tutorial as it really is a topic of its own. But if you have a question about it please let me know in the comments or via email.

There are other reasons to prime a model but I won't cover those here. If you have a question I'll be happy to answer it in the comments, via email or with another tutorial though.

In the interim here's a look at how I primed one of the Beveled Edge "Trench Works" 60mm 02 bases.



And that's really it. Tight controlled burst of primer to create a thin layer of "teeth" for the next layers of paint to adhere to.

It's worth noting that the 60mm base in the video is going to be used with one of my models and will eventually be shades of black and brown.

Remember, if you have a weathering or detailing question you'd like answered just drop an email to misterjustin at secret weapon miniatures dot com.

New Tutorial: Weathering Decals

I have posted a quick video tutorial on using sandpaper to weather decals over at the Secret Weapon blog.

This will be the first of many new tutorials as I renew my ties with ++ From the Warp ++ to properly launch the "ask misterjustin" tutorial series.

If you have a hobby related question you'd like to have answered drop an email to misterjustin at secret weapon miniatures dot com.

This blog will continue to focus on my current painting projects - but will also get revamped as I narrow down that scope to make it more useful and relevant to readers and less, "here's what I painted."

Weathering Pigment: Tank Treads

I just finished a tutorial for Secret Weapon Miniatures showing you how I weather tank treads using pigments. This fantastic technique is easy to apply and takes only a few minutes to create.

Check it out on the Secret Weapon blog....

Quick Tip: Paint & Detail Order

I see a lot of questions on forums about when certain techniques should be applied in relation to each other and so I've put together this Quick Tip rule of thumb:

primer
acrylic paints
gloss
washes & decals
gloss if you've done decals
secondary washes & panel lines
matte sealer
chipping (sponge or brush)
pencil effects
oil & wash filter effects
pigments
matte sealer

See my Quick Tip on Gloss vs. Flat Sealer for a quick look at which the different sealers matter.

Video Tutorial: Salt Chip Weathering

With Secret Weapon Miniatures up and running I finally had a few minutes today to get the oft' requested tutorial on salt chip weathering put together.

This is just a very quick look at salt chip weathering using Krylon aerosol sprays for the base coat and the top layer. I would normally do all of the painting with my airbrush so that I could shade and highlight while I was working, but just wanted to demonstrate the basics for this technique.

If you're trying this with an airbrush for the first time let me stress one important point: wait a LONG TIME for your paint to dry! If you try to rinse off the salt too early you can easily wash all of your hard work away in the process. If you have the patience let the model sit over night in a warm, dry environment - but at least give it a couple of hours.

Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 4: Pastel/Pigment Powders

Here is the fourth and final installment in my first weathering video tutorial series. This is a quick look at weathering with pastel/pigment powders. I weathered this a bit more heavily than I would have normally done so that it would show up on my little camera but the basic techniques are the same.

Tamiya 2.5 Ton Truck - example from the video

Video 1: Artist Pencils

Video 2: Dot Oil Filter

Video 3: Oil Grime & Rust

Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 3: Rust & Grime

This is the second part of my oil weathering video - presented here as Part 3. In this video I take a quick look at applying rust and grime with oil paints.



Part 1 - Artist Pencils

Part 2 - Oil Dot Filter Method

Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 2: Oil Filters

I've put together a series of video tutorials covering the basics of my three favorite weathering methods: pencils, oils and pastels. The image below shows the results of all three techniques applied over two different base coats.



The second video in the series demonstrates using small dots of water mixable oil paints to weather a vehicle. This is most commonly referred to as the dot filter method.

It cuts off at the end to stay under the ten minute maximum - and I'll post part two of this video shortly.

Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 1: Pencils

I've put together a series of video tutorials covering the basics of my three favorite weathering methods: pencils, oils and pastels. The image below shows the results of all three techniques applied over two different base coats.



The first video in the series demonstrates using artist pencils to create scratches as a foundation for later weathering.

Quick Tip: Gloss vs. Flat Sealer

A gloss sealer will give the model a smooth, glass like finish; a flat or matte sealer has a rougher texture. But Gloss and flat sealers do more than change the finish on a model.

For instance, decals are easier to apply, and will last longer, on a gloss surface.

Here's a quick breakdown of which surface is better for various techniques:

Gloss	Flat/Matte
Overall washes	Oil filters
Decals	Panel line washes
Protect acrylics	Drybrushing
	Oil filter (dot method)
	Pastels/Pigments

Knowing which sealer to apply for which technique will help you decide in which order to apply weathering techniques.

For instance you should always apply a gloss layer before and after applying decals. However putting gloss over pigments/pastels will likely make most of your effort disappear.

Weathering With Pastel Powders

While considering which weathering tutorials to write up and where I would start I realized I have a Tamiya 2.5 Ton Cargo Truck sitting on my desk. Although it's not a 40k I'm going to use most of the techniques in my arsenal to get it finished and realized this made it the perfect tutorial project.

First up is an introduction to weathering with pastel powders. I'm using "Doc O'Brien's" for this tutorial. I'm happy with the product, and you get a few colours it's harder to match with art store pastel sticks, but you can do this much less expensively with generic art pastels and some sandpaper.

This is the un-weathered cab. I have base coated the interior and painted the seats.



The colors I'm using are "Rust Red," "Rust Brown," "Grimy Black" and "Dirt Brown." I will use Testors enamel thinner sparingly as we go - and that bottle will likely last me several years.



I bought a $3 pack of crappy brushes to use with powders. I took one of them and cut it off about 10mm or 1/4" from the ferrule. Using this brush I applied "Rust Red" in a generous layer. You can blow off, brush off or wipe off excess - like I do in the next step.



Using another cheap brush I applied some enamel thinner and wiped away a bit of the "Rust Red" powder. This also helps get the remaining powder into the recesses and will bind it more permanently to the model. In the image on the right I have added the "Rust Brown" powder.



Application of more thinner (left) and "Dirt Brown" (right).



Application of "Grimy Black" gives us the finished image for the deck plate. In the bottom image you can see where I stippled the rust near where feet would kick getting into the truck. Always remember that corners will be more heavily weathered in most vehicles. I applied additional black, and then thinned heavily, where the driver's feet would rub.



These techniques and materials can be used to create incredibly realistic rust, dirt and grime and are very well suited to vehicles. Use them on engines, treads, bolts, hatches... anywhere you'd expect to find gunk and rust.


Next up... playing with oil!

Tutorial Update

I posted a new freehand tutorial,Ultramarines 2nd Company icon on a cape, on the Relic forums as part of the freehand banner contest.