My "realistic rock" tutorial has been a long running favorite and I've redone it a couple of times now. I figured it was finally time to get it posted in video format though and so here it is!
The technique is a bit rushed in the video as I only have 9 minutes before YouTube cuts me off. But if you want to see additional examples of the finished technique just check out the "Runic Mountain" pressure cast resin bases. I painted the whole lot of them using this technique to create differin styles.
Showing posts with label Video. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Video. Show all posts
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Ask misterjustin: Priming Models
After I posted pics of one of my personal projects I had several people ask me why I would prime a model white and then paint it black. It's an excellent question and I'm happy to answer it.
First let me say that you should only apply a very (VERY!) thin layer of primer to your models. I'll look at why below but when I say "thin" I mean that if you're priming white over a grey model you should still be able to see grey through the primer.
If you apply the primer too thickly you'll loose detail on the model and create a smooth layer that will be LESS effective at helping paint to adhere to the model (see 1, below).
Now let's look at why you prime a model:
1. By using a thin layer of primer you create a very slightly rough texture on the model. This isn't the rough texture, often called "orange peel," that you get with a bad primer application but a very thin coating of paint. This thin coating creates tiny, microscopic peaks and valleys that will give the next layer of paint somewhere to rest. This keeps it from flowing more freely across the model and helps stop it from being rubbed off as easily with handling as there is more surface holding the paint in place.
2. Many are the mold lines you'll find when you add a thin layer of primer. This gives you a chance to clean them up, and re-prime just that section, before moving on.
3. By adding "teeth" to the model you can use thinner layers of paint, and thus loose less detail while painting, because it's easier for the second and subsequent layers to adhere to the model.
4. Pre-shading is something I'll cover in a future tutorial as it really is a topic of its own. But if you have a question about it please let me know in the comments or via email.
There are other reasons to prime a model but I won't cover those here. If you have a question I'll be happy to answer it in the comments, via email or with another tutorial though.
In the interim here's a look at how I primed one of the Beveled Edge "Trench Works" 60mm 02 bases.
And that's really it. Tight controlled burst of primer to create a thin layer of "teeth" for the next layers of paint to adhere to.
It's worth noting that the 60mm base in the video is going to be used with one of my models and will eventually be shades of black and brown.
Remember, if you have a weathering or detailing question you'd like answered just drop an email to misterjustin at secret weapon miniatures dot com.
First let me say that you should only apply a very (VERY!) thin layer of primer to your models. I'll look at why below but when I say "thin" I mean that if you're priming white over a grey model you should still be able to see grey through the primer.
If you apply the primer too thickly you'll loose detail on the model and create a smooth layer that will be LESS effective at helping paint to adhere to the model (see 1, below).
Now let's look at why you prime a model:
- It adds "teeth" to help paint adhere to the mode
- It helps in finding mold lines and surface defects
- It allows you to use thinner layers of paint
- Pre-shading
1. By using a thin layer of primer you create a very slightly rough texture on the model. This isn't the rough texture, often called "orange peel," that you get with a bad primer application but a very thin coating of paint. This thin coating creates tiny, microscopic peaks and valleys that will give the next layer of paint somewhere to rest. This keeps it from flowing more freely across the model and helps stop it from being rubbed off as easily with handling as there is more surface holding the paint in place.
2. Many are the mold lines you'll find when you add a thin layer of primer. This gives you a chance to clean them up, and re-prime just that section, before moving on.
3. By adding "teeth" to the model you can use thinner layers of paint, and thus loose less detail while painting, because it's easier for the second and subsequent layers to adhere to the model.
4. Pre-shading is something I'll cover in a future tutorial as it really is a topic of its own. But if you have a question about it please let me know in the comments or via email.
There are other reasons to prime a model but I won't cover those here. If you have a question I'll be happy to answer it in the comments, via email or with another tutorial though.
In the interim here's a look at how I primed one of the Beveled Edge "Trench Works" 60mm 02 bases.
And that's really it. Tight controlled burst of primer to create a thin layer of "teeth" for the next layers of paint to adhere to.
It's worth noting that the 60mm base in the video is going to be used with one of my models and will eventually be shades of black and brown.
Remember, if you have a weathering or detailing question you'd like answered just drop an email to misterjustin at secret weapon miniatures dot com.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
New Tutorial: Weathering Decals
I have posted a quick video tutorial on using sandpaper to weather decals over at the Secret Weapon blog.
This will be the first of many new tutorials as I renew my ties with ++ From the Warp ++ to properly launch the "ask misterjustin" tutorial series.
If you have a hobby related question you'd like to have answered drop an email to misterjustin at secret weapon miniatures dot com.
This blog will continue to focus on my current painting projects - but will also get revamped as I narrow down that scope to make it more useful and relevant to readers and less, "here's what I painted."
This will be the first of many new tutorials as I renew my ties with ++ From the Warp ++ to properly launch the "ask misterjustin" tutorial series.
If you have a hobby related question you'd like to have answered drop an email to misterjustin at secret weapon miniatures dot com.
This blog will continue to focus on my current painting projects - but will also get revamped as I narrow down that scope to make it more useful and relevant to readers and less, "here's what I painted."
Monday, September 21, 2009
Video Tutorial: Salt Chip Weathering
With Secret Weapon Miniatures up and running I finally had a few minutes today to get the oft' requested tutorial on salt chip weathering put together.This is just a very quick look at salt chip weathering using Krylon aerosol sprays for the base coat and the top layer. I would normally do all of the painting with my airbrush so that I could shade and highlight while I was working, but just wanted to demonstrate the basics for this technique.
If you're trying this with an airbrush for the first time let me stress one important point: wait a LONG TIME for your paint to dry! If you try to rinse off the salt too early you can easily wash all of your hard work away in the process. If you have the patience let the model sit over night in a warm, dry environment - but at least give it a couple of hours.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 4: Pastel/Pigment Powders
Here is the fourth and final installment in my first weathering video tutorial series. This is a quick look at weathering with pastel/pigment powders. I weathered this a bit more heavily than I would have normally done so that it would show up on my little camera but the basic techniques are the same.
Tamiya 2.5 Ton Truck - example from the video
Video 1: Artist Pencils
Video 2: Dot Oil Filter
Video 3: Oil Grime & Rust
Tamiya 2.5 Ton Truck - example from the video
Video 1: Artist Pencils
Video 2: Dot Oil Filter
Video 3: Oil Grime & Rust
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 3: Rust & Grime
This is the second part of my oil weathering video - presented here as Part 3. In this video I take a quick look at applying rust and grime with oil paints.
Part 1 - Artist Pencils
Part 2 - Oil Dot Filter Method
Part 1 - Artist Pencils
Part 2 - Oil Dot Filter Method
Friday, July 3, 2009
Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 2: Oil Filters
I've put together a series of video tutorials covering the basics of my three favorite weathering methods: pencils, oils and pastels. The image below shows the results of all three techniques applied over two different base coats.
The second video in the series demonstrates using small dots of water mixable oil paints to weather a vehicle. This is most commonly referred to as the dot filter method.
It cuts off at the end to stay under the ten minute maximum - and I'll post part two of this video shortly.
The second video in the series demonstrates using small dots of water mixable oil paints to weather a vehicle. This is most commonly referred to as the dot filter method.
It cuts off at the end to stay under the ten minute maximum - and I'll post part two of this video shortly.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Video Tutorial - Quick Weathering Part 1: Pencils
I've put together a series of video tutorials covering the basics of my three favorite weathering methods: pencils, oils and pastels. The image below shows the results of all three techniques applied over two different base coats.
The first video in the series demonstrates using artist pencils to create scratches as a foundation for later weathering.
The first video in the series demonstrates using artist pencils to create scratches as a foundation for later weathering.
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